Cooking
Range Repair for Freestanding, Slide-In and Pro-Style Models
A range puts a cooking surface and an oven in one appliance. Use this page when the problem involves the whole unit, its power or gas supply, or a control that runs both halves.
Booking online works too. With the range's model number in the form, we can check part availability before we come.
First the appliance and its location, then your contact details. We follow up to schedule.
What a range is, and what ties it together
A range is a single appliance: burners or cooking zones up top, an oven below. It may be freestanding with finished sides, slide-in with the controls at the front, or pro-style with heavy burners and a deep oven. The top and oven share a power supply and often a control, which is why some faults affect both halves at once.
A gas range needs a 120-volt outlet for its igniters, lights and controls, plus a gas supply through a flexible connector and shutoff valve. An electric range needs a 240-volt circuit. Dual-fuel models burn gas on top and bake electrically, so they need both a gas line and a 240-volt circuit.
Every range should have an anti-tip bracket that holds a rear foot to the floor or wall. Ranges that have been pulled out for floor or counter work often go back in without it engaged.
- Freestanding
- Slide-in
- Front-control
- Dual-fuel
- Pro-style
- Induction range
Range symptoms that involve the whole unit
These problems sit between the cooking surface and the oven, or affect both. For a single burner or just the oven, see the stove or oven page.
- Entire range dead
- Breaker, outlet or cord, internal fuse, control board, power supply
- Top works but the oven doesn't, or the reverse
- One breaker leg tripped, control relay, a component on the dead side
- Breaker trips when the range is on
- Shorted element, damaged wiring, moisture in a switch
- Gas smell, or weak flames on every burner
- Supply valve partly closed, regulator, leaking connector; leave the house if the smell is strong
- Range rocks or tips forward
- Anti-tip bracket not engaged, uneven floor, leveling legs
- Control panel or display errors
- Control board, keypad, sensor fault codes
- Dual-fuel oven dead, gas top fine
- 240-volt circuit, oven element or control
Checks for a range
- Look at the breaker panel. Electric and dual-fuel ranges use a double breaker, and a half-tripped one can leave part of the range dead.
- Make sure the range is fully plugged in, especially if it's been moved recently.
- For gas, confirm the shutoff valve behind the range is open.
- Note any control lock or error code, and look it up in the manual.
- Check the anti-tip bracket by carefully tilting the range forward from the back edge. It should stop almost at once.
Before you touch anything: Turn off power at the breaker before pulling a range out, and mind the gas line and connector behind it. At any whiff of gas, get out and call 911 and Washington Gas from outside. After a gas range has been moved, many manufacturers call for a new flexible connector rather than reusing the old one.
When to book range repair
- The range is dead or half-dead after you've checked the breakers.
- The breaker trips whenever you use it.
- Every burner's flame seems weak. If you smell gas, leave first and call from outside.
- A control or display error keeps coming back.
- The range rocks or tips because the anti-tip bracket isn't engaged.
What a range repair visit looks like
The technician checks the supply first: incoming voltage at the receptacle or terminal block, then gas pressure and fittings. Then the control, wiring and individual components are tested. Some ranges have to be pulled out to reach the back; once everything is reconnected, gas connections are leak-tested.
You get the explanation and a quote before work begins, and nothing is done until you approve it. We're an independent repair company, so a range still inside its factory warranty belongs with the manufacturer first.
Repair or replace the range?
Most range repairs, such as igniters, elements, switches, sensors and wiring, are worth doing. A control board on a basic freestanding range may come close to replacement cost, and we'll tell you if it does.
Pro-style ranges from Wolf, Thermador and Viking are expensive and built to be serviced, so repair nearly always wins. If you replace, confirm the fuel and electrical supply, the width and depth, and that the anti-tip bracket is installed for the new range.
Why Book Us for Range Repair
Supply checked first
Voltage and gas supply are confirmed before any part is blamed, since many whole-range faults start there.
Gas connections leak-tested
Any gas connection we disturb is checked before we leave.
An honest read on control boards
If a board costs close to a new range, we say so and help you weigh it.
See the Maryland neighborhoods and ZIP codes we cover, or request a range repair.
Range Repair in Houses, Townhomes and Condos
Pro-style dual-fuel ranges from Wolf, Thermador and Viking are common in Potomac and in the rebuilt houses around Bethesda and Chevy Chase. Most of the gas ranges we see, from those down to basic freestanding models in Silver Spring and Hyattsville, are fed by Washington Gas, and we leak-test any gas connection we touch. Many condo kitchens have electric slide-in ranges instead.
How a Range Repair Visit Works
Book the Visit
Give us the width, whether it's gas, electric or dual-fuel, and whether the cooktop, oven or whole range has the problem.
Find the Fault
The technician checks the supply first (power, gas and the connector), then the burners, ovens, controls and anti-tip bracket.
Approve the Price
Large and pro-style ranges can need parts from the maker, so you'll hear about availability along with the price.
Fix and Check
Burners and ovens are tested after the repair, and gas work gets a leak check before the range goes back into use.
Related Services
More appliances, brands and areas on this site.
Range problems we repair
The range faults we diagnose, from power and gas supply problems to controls, wiring and installation issues.
- Oven Not Heating
- Burner Not Working
- Control Board Failure
- Range Oven Not Heating
- Gas Range Burner Not Lighting
- Electric Range Burner Not Heating
- Range Not Level
- Range Oven Door Hinge Failure
- Self-Clean Function Issue
- Gas Smell from Range
- Oven Temperature Calibration Off
- Surface Element Switch Failure
- Range Level Adjustment Needed
- Double Oven Range — One Oven Not Working
- Range Hood Issues Over Range
- Control Knob Not Clicking Into Positions
- Warming Drawer Misaligned
- All Range Burners Clicking Simultaneously
- Rear Burners Not Working
- Range Oven Light Not Working
- Front Burners Stronger Than Rear Burners
- Cooktop Grates Wobble or Move
- Range Self-Clean Error Code
- Bake Element Not Fully Seated
- Meat Probe Jack Broken
- Backguard / Control Panel Loose
- Range Installation Problem
- Gap Between Slide-In Range and Countertop
- Range on Incorrect Circuit
- Range Hood Inadequate for Range Size
Range brands we service
Range makers that come up most, with notes, then every other brand on our list.
- GE Appliances range repair
- Samsung range repair
- LG range repair
- Whirlpool range repair
- Frigidaire range repair
- Wolf range repair
- Viking range repair
- Thermador range repair
Where we repair ranges
Each area page adds notes on the ranges we see in its homes, plus its ZIP codes. Or book below.
More reading on ranges
Range Repair Questions
The questions that come up most often. Anything not covered here, ask us when you call, or add it to the booking form's notes field.
Have a different question?
Tell us what make it is and what's going wrong. A few things can be settled over the phone, and anything else gets looked at during the visit.
A range is a single appliance that pairs a cooking surface with an oven. “Stove” is the everyday word for the same thing. A cooktop is the burners or zones alone, mounted in a counter. We use this page for whole-range problems, the stove page for burners and elements, and the cooktop page for built-in cooking surfaces.
Yes, including Wolf, Thermador, Viking and other dual-fuel models. Because they need both gas and a 240-volt circuit, the diagnosis checks both supplies before moving on to components.
Usually a shorted element, damaged wiring or moisture in a switch. Stop using the range until it's been checked; repeatedly resetting a breaker on a shorted circuit isn't safe.
Many manufacturers call for a new connector rather than reusing the old one, and older uncoated brass connectors should be replaced. After any gas connection is changed, it needs a leak test.
It's a bracket that holds a rear foot of the range so the range stays put when someone leans on or loads the open oven door. Ranges come with one. If yours rocks when you tilt it forward from the back edge, the bracket isn't engaged.
Yes. Induction ranges combine an induction cooking surface with an electric oven. Faults on the top usually involve the power boards, coils or cooling fan, while oven faults follow the same path as any electric oven.