Whirlpool has built a huge share of the washers in American laundry rooms, including many sold under the Maytag, Amana, Roper and older Kenmore names. That's good news when one breaks: parts are widely stocked, and the failure patterns are well known. The catch is that "Whirlpool washer" covers several very different machines, and the fix for one tells you little about another.
So this guide starts with the symptom you're seeing, then tells you which machines it applies to.
Know your machine in thirty seconds
Open the lid or door and look in.
- •Top-load with a tall agitator post: a traditional agitator machine. Older ones are mechanically simple.
- •Top-load with a low, flat impeller in the bottom of the basket: a high-efficiency top-loader. The Cabrio and many newer Whirlpool top-loads are this type.
- •Front-load, door on the front: includes the Duet line and its successors, and most stacked laundry centers' washer halves.
Then find the model number. On top-loaders it's usually under the lid, on the back edge of the cabinet. On front-loaders it's around the door opening. Write it down. Every part and every code chart depends on it.
"It fills, but the clothes barely look wet"
On a high-efficiency top-loader, that's by design. These machines sense the load and add a limited amount of water, then rely on the impeller to move clothes through it. Owners used to older agitator washers often assume something is wrong.
It is worth checking whether a deep-water or "add water" option exists on your model. It's also worth making sure the load isn't too small or too tightly packed, since both confuse the load sensing. If the machine truly isn't filling, or fills very slowly, look at the hot and cold faucets (both fully open?) and the small mesh screens inside the washer's water inlets, behind the hose fittings. Mineral grit collects there over years of WSSC water, and a partly clogged screen can trigger a long-fill code.
"Lid Locked" light blinking, and nothing happens
On many Whirlpool HE top-loaders, the lid lock has to lock and confirm it before the machine will agitate or spin. If the lock can't confirm, you get a blinking light and a machine that sits there.
Things to rule out first:
- •A sock or small item caught in the latch area.
- •A lid striker that's bent or cracked.
- •Something stacked on the lid preventing it from closing fully.
If the lid closes cleanly and the light still blinks, the lid lock assembly itself is a common replacement part on these models. Its wiring runs through the hinge area, where repeated opening can wear it.
"The motor hums, but the basket just sits there"
On HE top-loaders, the drive system uses a shifter (also called a shift actuator) to switch between agitating and spinning. When it fails, the motor may run, and you may hear clicking or humming, but the basket and impeller don't do what they should. Some models display a code; others just stop partway through the cycle.
Older direct-drive top-loaders from the 1990s and 2000s have a different weak point: a small rubber-and-plastic motor coupling between the motor and the transmission. It is designed to break before something more expensive does. If you hear the motor running but nothing turns, the coupling is often the answer. These machines also have a set of agitator "dogs" in the top of the agitator; when they wear, the top half spins freely but the bottom still moves.
"Water is left in the drum"
On a front-loader, first check the drain pump filter. Most Whirlpool front-loads hide it low on the right or left corner of the front, under a little access cover. Spread towels and set out a baking dish first; more water drains out than you'd guess. Expect to find loose change, bobby pins, or a baby sock.
On top-loaders, the pump is inside the cabinet and there's usually no user-accessible filter, so a blockage is more work. Before calling, pull the machine out a few inches and look at the drain hose: a sharp bend behind the cabinet, or a hose end shoved deep into the standpipe, both cause trouble. Our article on washers that won't drain covers the drain side in more depth.
"Front-loader smells musty"
Front-loaders hold a little water in the door boot after every wash. In a humid Mid-Atlantic summer, especially in a closet or basement with little air movement, that's an easy place for mildew to grow.
What helps:
- •Leave the door open between loads.
- •Run a dry cloth around the inside folds of the rubber boot when you finish washing for the day.
- •Pull the dispenser drawer out and rinse it.
- •Use HE detergent, measured to the line or below.
- •Run the machine's cleaning cycle monthly.
Black spots already embedded deep in the boot rubber rarely clean out completely. If they bother you, the boot can be replaced.
"It bangs, walks, or roars during spin"
A load that's out of balance will make any washer thump. If it happens with normal, mixed loads, check that the machine is level and that all four feet are on the floor. On front-loaders, a rumble during spin that gets louder month by month, like a distant jet, usually means the tub bearings are going. That's a large repair on most models and one of the times we'll help you weigh repair against replacement.
On top-loaders, a basket that sags or bangs the cabinet can mean worn suspension rods or springs.
Codes worth knowing
Whirlpool code formats vary by generation. A few examples:
| Code | Common on | What it generally means |
|---|---|---|
| F9 E1 | Front-loaders | Drain is taking too long |
| F8 E1 | Front-loaders | Fill is taking too long, or no water |
| F5 E2 | Front-loaders | Door lock problem |
| LF | HE top-loaders | Long fill, including a machine that siphons water out as it fills |
| Ld | HE top-loaders | Long drain; a hose end sitting too far down the standpipe can cause it |
Check the technical sheet for your model. It's usually tucked inside the console or behind the front panel, and it lists the codes and diagnostic modes specific to that machine.
What's safe to do yourself
- •Clean the fill hose screens and the drain pump filter.
- •Level the machine and check the hoses.
- •Clean the door boot and dispenser.
- •Unplug the machine for a minute to reset a control that's confused after a power blip.
Anything that involves removing the cabinet, testing wiring, or replacing a lock, pump or shifter should be done with the washer unplugged and the water turned off. If you're not comfortable with that, it's time to call.
Getting it repaired
We repair Whirlpool machines as an independent service; if yours is new enough to be covered by Whirlpool's warranty, go through Whirlpool first. Otherwise, you can book through our Whirlpool washer repair page or the general washer repair page. The technician tests the machine where it stands, shows you the failed part, and prices the fix for your approval. Parts are matched to your model number, and if a part comes from someone other than Whirlpool, you'll hear that before it's installed.
If your washer is half of a stacked unit in a condo closet, our guide to stacked washer-dryers in condos covers the access and building details worth sorting out before the visit.